Opulent texture, dynamic color, and look-at-me outerwear were the touchstones of Milan Fashion Week FW25, where distinct evolutions of house DNA set the winners apart from the season’s monotony.
Sophisticated ease, rebellious elegance, and the art of dressing up were all part of a week that journeyed through house transitions, milestones, and farewells. Fendi celebrated its 100th anniversary with Silvia Venturini Fendi’s well-received rendering of its storied legacy, Giorgio Armani hit 50 years for his namesake brand, and Dsquared2 partied through its 30th. Lucie and Luke Meier announced their departure from Jil Sander after their last show for the brand, while the show went on for Gucci, whose design studio presented its collection despite the departure of creative director Sabato de Sarno.
The collections themselves seemed to oscillate between the personas and wardrobes of glamorous Italian women; whether it was the gauchely-sexy librarian type at Prada and Bally, the overt glamourpuss at Versace and Roberto Cavalli, Dolce & Gabbana and Diesel cool girls, or the fur-toting, hand-bag clutching, old-world fabulosity of the sciura (aka the Milanese grandma) best represented at Fendi, Gucci and Giorgio Armani. Hand-in-hand with each of these personas came Milan’s renewed obsession with fur—the obvious trend statement of the week. Shearling, faux fur, (mostly) mink lookalikes, and pony hair appeared highly covetable for colder climes in sweeping duster coats, belted jackets, stoles, linings, and headwear.
Also present was the continued idea of tapping into one’s personal style as an antidote to micro-trend culture, apparent at the more conceptual outings from Prada, Marni, and MM6 Maison Margiela. Visible seams, frayed hems, clashing prints, awkward silhouettes, and more bag charms (including the very Instagrammable Fendi dolls) spoke to personal tastes and wardrobe-building.
Carrying over from London Fashion week were scarf coats, caped and draped outerwear, shawl collars, and funnel neck silhouettes. Fringing and fraying has been a mainstay the past few seasons and persisted its presence in Milan, as did crystal embellishments and beading scattered across everything from knitwear to evening dresses. Knee-high and riding boots look to be gaining popularity once more (think, the loafer knee-high boot hybrid at Prada), while Prada’s bowling bags and Fendi’s Spy Bag are being touted as next season’s favourites.
Though they didn’t stage runway shows, buyers and editors were particularly a-buzz about the lush fabrications and quality craftmanship from the Loro Piana and Brioni collections—two brands who are largely responsible for the ‘quiet luxury’ boom, but this season created interest with gossamer-thin cashmere and rejigged menswear tropes. Elsewhere, there were plenty of skirt suits and conservative-leaning corporate tailoring, velvet evening wear is having a moment, peplums are working their way back into the spotlight, and earthy brown and olive tones appear here to stay.
Now, to the trends. Discover all the maximalist looks, colours and prints from Milan Fashion Week Fall Winter 25.
Future vintage furs
So, the “mob wife” trend was onto something after all? Faux fur, fur, mohair, shearling and all things fuzzy took over the runways; humourous colour variations at Marni and rendered with couture flare at Fendi, who announced post-show the brand is opening a new “fur atelier” in its Milan store in September. Prada sent chubbies down the runway with not much else, plus variations with a weatherproof top coat. Etro’s blown up trapper hats and Dolce & Gabbana’s cloud-like coats added a tongue-in-cheek attitude to the extreme use of a fabric that is otherwise highly divisive.
Keen as mustard
Rich yellow, gold, mustard and other shades in between could be the beginnings of a colour trend—if not just a well-suited partner to cherry reds and berry tones. The particularly warm, autumnal shade was zeroed in on at Etro with ornate prints and effortless shapes, and at Ferrari in fringed jacquard tailoring. The hue was part of Marni’s punchy colour wheel in structured jackets and flowing skirts, and was quietly slipped into Prada and Gucci’s collections as the perfect pop of colour.
Welcome to the jungle
Touching on the abundance of animal-centric prints almost feels like stating the obvious when it comes to Milan Fashion Week. Leopard and snakeskin are akin to neutrals for some Italian houses, and this season was no different with heavy additions of embossed croc and eel skin in jackets and accessories. Roberto Cavalli and Dontalla Versace stayed tapped into house DNA with bold and slinky leopard styles, while Etro collaborated with Korean artist Maria Jeon on a series of embroideries inspired by fantastical zoology.
Star studded
Sequins, appliqué gems, studs, and eyelets were back and glitzier than ever in intricate, artisanal creations that highlighted signature Italian craftsmanship. Versace embellished everything from shirt pockets to chainmail skirts, Emporio Armani celebrated 50 years with crystal-emblazoned tulle while Fendi looked to daytime opulence with embellished knitwear and belted coats.
Stylishly cinched
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A tightly pulled belt over rounded coats, skirt suits and sharp tailoring was widespread in Milan’s styling choices, adding a 60s-esque ladylike elegance to the runways. Just like London’s feminocentric shaped dresses and full skirts, the focus on the waist is emerging as one of the season’s top trends; Max Mara honed in voluminous coats and skirts with double-wound leather belts while Tod’s Jil Sander’s belted looks exuded a defiant, punk-ish attitude with the interplay of soft fabrics disrupted by severity of the belts.
Main Image Credit: Phil Oh
