There is no doubt Paris is under the microscope right now. As the world’s busiest tourist city prepares for the Olympics in what is already their most overpopulated season, the fashion world got a taste of what the city can do, adding several exclamation points to Men’s Fashion Week Spring Summer 2025.
But of course, Paris wasn’t the only host, with roughly 87 shows and presentations across Pitti Uomo, Milan, and London who joined the June format on the schedule. Men's Fashion Week has been gaining mainstream coverage in recent seasons, largely due to the celebrity star power of the likes of Pharrell Williams for Louis Vuitton, TikTok and K pop stars attracting screaming fans outside Milan’s biggest houses — and just to add fuel to the fire, A$AP Rocky and his surprise debut collection as AWGE, which will forever be synonymous with a Rihanna appearance.
In Milan, not to be overshadowed by his peers, former Gucci auteur Alessandro Michele dropped over 260 images of his earlier-than-expected debut collection for Valentino. Also among the fanfare was a grand display of inclusivity from Rick Owens who returned to show at the Palais de Tokyo amid his ever-growing cult status. Dries Van Noten took his final bow in Paris, with the consensus being that his closing collection delivered a sense of hope and excitement for the future of his brand, rather than a somber end-of-an-era departure. Yes, the glitz and glamor of Vogue World was simply the cherry on top of a full-scale men’s season.
Overall, themes from Mens SS25 circulated the psychology of dressing; is today’s fashion simply an imitation of ourselves, are we in costumes — where is clothing taking us? Masculinity is an obvious trope, however, this time around it seemed less of a push to subvert gender norms, and rather focus on the softer, more effeminate sides of men.
No one presents clothing psychology better than Prada, and though Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada chose to focus on clothing over concept, their ‘Closer’ show was all about perception. What looked like sweaters and cardigans over polos and floral shirts was actually one garment. Wire was embedded inside collars and cuffs for the wearer to bend and manipulate to their desired level of disheveled, and belts were not belts but a trompe l'oeil effect on trousers.
Fashion has long examined the idea of ‘uniform’ and it’s this theme where plenty of designers hedged their bets, in terms of relevance and more importantly, design finesse. Kim Jones for Dior Homme and Silvia Venturia Fendi for Fendi both allowed a louche-ness and youthfulness to preppy schoolboy-style outfitting, which resulted in an appealing lightness for an interchangeable wardrobe. Soccer jerseys and rugby stripes were on theme, seen at Doublet, Louis Vuitton and Fendi.
With all the pomp and ceremony, the best shows came from the designers who zeroed in on garments and styling for real life. There was a certain elegance, rather than a conservatism, across the collections which made for plenty of layering of polo collars, cardigans, soft blazers, tailored shorts, and the uprising of the low-slung slim trouser - a silhouette set to takeover bottom-of-body ranges for the foreseeable future.
Sacai, Kolor, and Lemaire executed supremely light, at-ease wardrobes, with subtle nods to utility; somehow achieving complexity and simplicity at once. Conversely, Jonathan Anderson continued to speak in his design language at JW Anderson, showing his signature abstraction in everyday items blown to conceptual proportions.
Chore jackets, trench coats, and bombers with all sorts of pockets continued to be the outerwear of choice, while soft neutrals and browns remained prominent in the trend palette. Elsewhere, top-to-toe colour blocking in pastels remained a strong theme at Issey Miyake, Comme Des Garçons, and Bianca Saunders, while camouflage was an apparent print, but not as gorp-y as in previous years at Undercover, Sankuanz, and Ziggy Chen.
The biggest trends? No points for guessing the most popular pant length. Read on to discover the four trends dominating the menswear sphere this season.
CHECKING OUT
Madras, plaids, gingham, take your pick. Checks were all over the menswear scene this season, from Louis Vuitton's Damier in cropped tailored jackets and knee-length shorts, to Fendi’s schoolboy caps, jackets, and trousers. Issey Miyake’s deconstructed and billowing garments added softness and intrigue, while Auralee and Loewe both chose pale blue gingham. Emporio Armani’s subdued checks felt classic and elegant in the most modern way possible.
POLO BOYS
Are we done with grunge? There has been a significant shift to more conservative-ish menswear staples and silhouettes, with the polo shirt, or at least the polo collar, the top choice. Whether exuding a late-1950s summer-in-Italy charm, crocheted and netted, patterned and deconstructed, or finishing just at the top of the trousers (the low-slung slim kind) there’s never been more ways to wear one of the world’s most common clothing items.
UTILITY LITE
The workwear-casualwear blend has taken the utility stance for several seasons now, but SS25 offered some of the best iterations yet. Not so outdoorsy, and more crafted for everyday effortlessness, the utility trend still had its usual elements; zips, pockets, hoods, belts, and collars — but added in a much more nuanced way that kept the idea light and fresh. Key to the look was the choice of footwear, with sandals, brogues, and slipper-style flats making for a softer finish.
THIGH GUY SUMMER
Menswear has spoken. Perhaps you saw images of the internet’s favourite actor Paul Mescal sporting a dangerously short inseam in striped boxers outside the Gucci show, or perhaps you’ve seen social media declare 2024 the thigh guy summer. Short shorts for men are having their moment, and the Italians know it better than anyone. The entire Gucci collection was styled with shorts, while Dolce & Gabbana’s signature masculinity did not shy away from creating the perfect length. Neil Barrett, Zegna, and Dior Homme followed suit.
Image Credit: Pause
