If it was the passing of the Queen that influenced a somber SS23, then it was the passing of the Queen of Punk that anchored the runways of Fall Winter 23 in London. London powered through a short but fascinating fashion week, holding fast to the experimental and quizzical style of the late Dame Vivienne Westwood.
... it was the passing of the Queen of Punk that anchored the runways of Fall Winter 23 in London.
Westwood’s memorial at the top of the week set the tone, a profound sense of Britishness felt re-energized— a legacy that London’s designers, from Burberry to the Central Saint Martins graduates, wore like a badge. Where New York focused on honing craft and wearability, London’s themes were much more cerebral; touching on metaphors, esoteric references, and creating characters to convey greater meaning.
Themes of identity largely grounded the week’s most transcendent outings. Dublin-born Simone Rocha lined skirts and dresses with raffia to represent Lughnasadh, the Irish harvest festival, while Ahluwalia, whose clothes celebrate her Nigerian-Indian heritage and London roots chose to dress models as the R&B heroes that soundtracked her life. Christopher Kane’s embroidered daisies on school uniform grey reflected the flowers he saw peeking through cement while growing up in working-class suburbia outside Glasgow.
And if we’re talking British, it didn’t get much more so than Daniel Lee’s much-hyped debut for Burberry. If it wasn’t the duck motif and blanket wraps, then it was the wind and rain-bearing trenchcoat, modern plays on the classic check and sturdy wellies. Oh, and put the Bottega green aside, it’s Burberry blue that’s coming for your wardrobe.
Oh, and put the Bottega green aside, it’s Burberry blue that’s coming for your wardrobe.
So, was there anything to hold on to for the season ahead? Plenty. Shearling and faux fur took a decidedly after-hours stance on mini skirts and dresses, bustiers, bags, and oversized trapper hats at David Koma, JW Anderson, and Burberry. Tailoring was sober with a certain strangeness, precise in its large shapes and nipped waists, think; Emilia Wickstead, Edward Crutchley, Christopher Kane, and Eudon Choi. Nensi Dojaka continued to fly the flag for lingerie-inspired party wear with help from Dilara Findikoglu and 16 Arlington.
A fast game’s a good game, as they say. Here we dissect the rhyme and reason behind the emerging trends from London Fashion Week Fall Winter 23.
Ruffle and Bustle
We should have seen this coming. We heard and saw the saw whisperings of this Victorian-era shape mainly at Dior last season, and proving no fleeting trend, the bustle was all over the London runways. Subtle in mini dresses, sensual in eveningwear, and cool and sophisticated in suiting. The real trend, however, comes with some sass. David Koma, JW Anderson, 16 Arlington, Erdem and Christopher Kane all lead from the hip with faux fur, fuzz, and ruffles for a modern tutu-inspired feminine silhouette that’s just plain fun.
Quiet Utility
As opposed to the all-out, ready-for-action utility we’ve seen over the past few seasons, workwear and outdoor designs have relaxed into a feminine and functional equilibrium. Burberry focused more on youthful, throw-on utilitarian outerwear with hiking gear-style trousers and heavy-duty climbing boots. Johanna Parv for Fashion East picked up where 90s Prada left, with hoods, cargo skirts, and trapeze coats for the modern urbanite. Eudon Choi presented genderless pieces with relaxed tailoring and hints of sportswear.
Dark Matter
Darkly humorous, a little disturbing and slightly mournful, monochrome black sure took an obscure stance this week. Dilara Findikoglu rendered traditional shapewear and restrictive corsetry in lace, feathers and leather, while Erdem’s widow-wear slips and black organza cited, “a push-and-pull between gothic Victoriana and rebellious wantonness”. Nensi Dojaka took to naked-revenge-dressing with velvet and sequins, and Christopher Kane’s beautiful front bustles were unnervingly created to represent the unraveling of the human intestine. Nice.
Valley of the Dolls
Youthful lace, girly accents, and a touch of doll-like menace took hold this week. Turkish designer Bora Aksu’s brood looked to crochet and quilting, bonnets, bunny ears and lace like a Halloween episode of Little House on the Prairie. Simone Rocha’s trademark voluminous silhouettes with full sleeves and skirts were offset with eerie red ribbons on garments and below the eyes of the models. Richard Quinn featured sequin flowers and pearl latticework embroidery, alongside draped and chiffon lingerie dresses. Conversely, with flesh-colored lace, boudoir trappings, and pink faux fur, Dilara Findikoglu created her own Marilyn Monroe versions to rewrite the damsel narrative.
London Fashion Week has come and gone once again providing us with a full spectrum of trends. With just Milan and Paris left, what new trends are yet to emerge this season? Don't miss a single trend: subscribe to our newsletter to get all the latest trends sent directly into your inbox.
Main Image Credit: Fashionista
