Nothing ‘quiet’ about it. In efforts to buck the luxury slowdown the players pleasing buyers were intent on twisting fashion’s current algorithm (no points for guessing who). However, some trends remain committed to next season and beyond as seen at Milan Fashion Week Spring Summer 2025, where collections blended nostalgia with future visions.
Playful, expressive, and not-so-serious, capital F fashion took a turn for… whatever it felt like. The Italian tastemakers sent a clear message to wardrobe banality, where, out of the 55 shows who took to the runway, adventure and subversive normality ruled. Francesco Risso’s Marni, one of the opening shows of MFW quickly became one of the city’s most talked about, even without any celebrities in attendance. It was a new level of commerciality for the brand; the collection was constructed from 100 percent cotton, from the shirting to the pannier skirts and cotton feathering.
Next, Prada left showgoers in a flap, with the first model appearing to storm out before the last seat was even taken. This tension between audience expectations and Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ refreshing approach to the show formula was exciting. No two looks were even close to being the same. That, and the hyper-pace of the models, was meant to reflect our algorithm-determined, image-saturated society which remains of great curiosity to Miuccia—who was “very nervous” ahead of the show. Apocalyptic-looking headwear and bug-eyed sunglasses were met with high-shine separates, pleated skirts hanging from O-rings, textured tweed, and sporty 60s influences. The show was also very self-referencial with shoes ranging from 2011’s espadrille-brogue to 2012’s flame heels.
Speaking of self-referential, Madonna was present at a very Madonna-Gaultier cone-bra outing for Dolce and Gabbana. Versace referenced Versus Versace’s 1997 collection resulting in a much more “demure” display for the powerhouse brand. Meanwhile, Cavalli honored its late founder with supermodels of yesteryear closing the show in seven archival pieces.
Matthieu Blazy’s Bottega Veneta collection was a hit with all its whimsy. Special guests including Kendall Jenner and Jacob Elordi were assigned to sit on various animal-themed bean bag seats; in his show notes, Blazy talked about childhood’s “adventure of the everyday.” The collection was certainly an adventure, with matchstick embellishments, fringed headwear, a one-leg pant and ‘plastic’ grocery bags crafted from leather—but was not without its commercial pieces for its sartorially-aware customers including those crumpled suits.
Fendi showed the transparent and sheer trend can still delight, adorning art deco embellishments on retro flapper dresses, a continuation of some of the themes we saw in London. Kim Jones collaborated with Red Wings workwear boots, which toughened up the pastel, pretty looks. “We put Red Wings (on the models) and not lady shoes, I wanted a real woman,” Jones said.
Other standouts included a filmic Jil Sander collection with a mix of 80s and 40s-inspired tailored silhouettes with oversized proportions in double pleats and loose pants. Sabato De Sarno’s third Gucci show also played with oversized coats, among mini skirts, and party-ready lace ensembles for Italian socialites. The Attico had a clear customer in mind with their nightclub-leaning collection of slinky, shimmery dresses, mermaid skirts, lingerie notes, and a subtle Nike collaboration.
Browns (+41% in show look appearances according to fashion search engine Tagwalk), pastel green, and yellow continue to dominate the color palette, while the boho revival is sticking to its roots with endless amounts of fringing (+29%), bubble hems and volume (+330%), chiffon layering, and sequins—especially where Etro and Alberta Ferretti are concerned.
Read on for some of the major trends distilled from Milan Fashion Week SS25.
Moonbeam rising
Pantone’s Moonbeam has begun to gather steam. The elegant and mineral cool-gray cropped up more than a few times during Milan Fashion Week, with its monochrome styling a refreshing take on corporate gray. Boss applied the color to soft tailoring, Fendi and Alberta Ferretti leaned into ethereal femininity, while Jil Sander’s iridescent take had cinematic impact in dramatic 80s suit silhouettes.
Fringing around
Whether through a 1920s lens, cowboy-western trims or as a key element of the boho revival, fringing is set to flutter from the clothes of wealthy women on vacation from now until summer 2025. African influences made for vivid Missoni pieces, while The Attico shredded club-girl tank tops, jeans and skirts. Fendi was one for flapper fringing, and Bottega Veneta included the texture from headwear, to skirts and coats.
Still-hot pants
Another trend that’s showing its staying power. Perhaps Ozempic’s ever-shrinking bodies have allowed designers to lean into consumer demand from those with new-found confidence to reveal more with shorter hemlines. The difference this season was without its heavy dose of Italian sexiness—Max Mara went a little quieter with muted tones and soft-looking fabrications paired with sophisticated shirting. Prada, Gucci and Versace all dialed back on the shape’s classic allure with eclectic styling and layering.
Orangeade
While yellow remains a strong contender for colour of the season, orange—or Pantone’s Orangeade—is creeping up closely behind. Whether it was pops of the exotic bright hue like at Iceberg and Prada, or head-to-toe like Alberta Ferretti’s bright orange cotton strapless dress, the hue is shaping up to be what red became to SS24. Bottega Veneta’s tangerine ruffle skirt look, and the collection’s tangerine draped dress were referenced by WWD as key pieces for the season ahead.
Glitz to-go
With Burberry in London shortly before Prada in Milan, Vogue Runway was quick to point out the big name brands pairing sparkly, sequined and shimmering evening dresses with technical outerwear. The hi-lo styling trend suggests the idea of commuting to events after work, or even WFH. Like 90s power suits with trainers, or the 2010s mish-mash aesthetic; the look serves a whole new take on ‘desk-to-dinner’ with ultimately wearable glitz in separates, skirts and cocktail dresses. Versace’s version was pairing a utility shirt with a gold pencil skirt, which was actually 3D-printed to look like sequins. The Attico’s siren gowns saw one paired with a cargo jacket and embellished fringing while No. 21 sought that downtown vibe with a fur-lined hooded parka over a sparkling dress embroidered with sequined florets.
Main image credit: Christian Vierig/Getty Images
